Essence Vogue Group Dishes On Males’s PFW F/W 23

It’s been per week of surprises, celeb entrance row appearances (Usher, Lucien Laviscount, aka the plot of Emily In Paris, Rosalía, and many others.), and stellar menswear reveals. Following Pitti Uomo and Milan Males’s Vogue Week, the style set ascended to Paris this week to proceed taking within the F/W 23 collections. This season menswear pushed the bounds of the binary and centered on sharp tailoring, and the Paris reveals continued these themes. From Rains’ avant-garde puffer coats (and 3D printed puffer boots produced by Zellerfeld) to Ami’s modern, impartial monochrome assortment centered on the fundamentals (and unbelievable coats), there was one thing for everyone.

From Bianca Saunders’ Playful presentation and Saint Laurent’s high-luxe exhibiting on the grand Bourse de commerce museum to the extremely anticipated Louis Vuitton males’s present spearheaded by KidSuper — our trend group had some ideas.

Essence Fashion Team Dishes On Men’s PFW F/W 23
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 19: A mannequin walks the runway through the Louis Vuitton Able to Put on Fall/Winter 2023-2024 trend present as a part of the Paris Males Vogue Week on January 19, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photograph by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho through Getty Photos)

Forward, our trend group discusses some our fav reveals and highlights from Males’s Paris Vogue Week.

WALES BONNER

Essence Fashion Team Dishes On Men’s PFW F/W 23
Jack Day

“Grace by no means fails to amaze me. Her curatorial method to presenting a set is nothing in need of extraordinary. This one assortment paid homage to the Sorbonne 56, featured work by famend artist Lubaina Himid, cowrie shells, and raffia plume combined in with conventional Saville Row tailoring — not many designers can pull from so many sources and but current a set that’s completely realized and cohesive.” — Shelton Boyd-Griffith, Vogue Editor

“British-Jamaican ladies in menswear appear to be successful recently and Grace Wales Bonner’s FW23 was nothing in need of extraordinary. Entitled “Twilight Reverie,” honoring the nationwide Jamaican soccer group, her designs have been true to her signature tailoring and had touches of Jamaican heritage all all through. Visitors to her present included Usher and Kendrick Lamar within the entrance row, which made for an excellent higher ambiance to the already well-curated present.” — Kerane Marcellus, Vogue Information Author

RICK OWENS

Essence Fashion Team Dishes On Men’s PFW F/W 23
A mannequin walks the runway through the Rick Owens Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 present as a part of Paris Vogue Week on January 19, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photograph Estrop by Getty Photos)

“There are few designers working right now which have an entire aesthetic universe, and Rick is a kind of. You distinctively know a Rick present if you see it. It’s darkish and moody, it challenges the binary, it oozes sensuality whereas additionally having an undertone of the extraterrestrial. For F/W the tailoring was all the pieces. There was this brown cowhide, sharp-shouldered tackle a bomber jacket — I need it now! — SBG

“Together with his muse, Tyrone Dylan opening the present as soon as once more, Rick Owens’s FW23 assortment was one other present stuffed with Avante Garde ideations and fantastical, darkish themes. With sharp pointed-to-the-sky shoulders on items and textures like snakeskin and nylon puffer materials made for an opulent runway.” — KM

SAINT LAURENT

Essence Fashion Team Dishes On Men’s PFW F/W 23
A mannequin walks the runway through the Saint Laurent Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 present as a part of Paris Vogue Week on January 17, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photograph by Francois Durand/Getty Photos)

“Modern, Parisian, cool! Like this assortment completely sums up what you consider if you consider a refined Parisian gentleman; you already know it simply has that je ne sais quoi. THE COATS! Lengthy leather-based trenches, impeccably tailor-made overcoats with sharp shoulders, outsized pinstripe fits, delicate blouses with bows in luxurious silks and satins, monochrome colour palette. Very grown-up stylish.” — SBG

“The style home Saint Laurent designed a few of the most gender-fluid and gorgeously assembled clothes designs for menswear. Large bows protecting slender necks and effeminate silhouettes hanging on fashions created a resurgence of sporting what you need no matter gender identification.” — KM

BIANCA SAUNDERS

Essence Fashion Team Dishes On Men’s PFW F/W 23
Bianca Saunders

“Bianca has confirmed to be a drive and one to look at and my god did this present show much more why she’s such a drive. The gathering was offered like a efficiency artwork piece with a powerful providing of nice tailoring, formalwear, knits (just like the creme set above). — SBG

“One other British-Jamaican lady in menswear Bianca Saunders has used this assortment to pay homage to a beacon in Jamaica, comic Oliver Samuels. Continuously highlighting her Jamaican tradition whereas juxtaposing these sentiments with minimalist and well-tailored designs is one thing she’s grow to be a little bit of an skilled at. She’s used related silhouettes all through her design profession, making lots of her items straightforward to tell apart. Now, she’s expanded on these shapes and translated them into new meanings taking part in with texture and motion.” — KM

LOUIS VUITTON

Essence Fashion Team Dishes On Men’s PFW F/W 23
PARIS, FRANCE – JANUARY 19: A mannequin walks the runway through the Louis Vuitton Able to Put on Fall/Winter 2023-2024 trend present as a part of the Paris Males Vogue Week on January 19, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photograph by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho through Getty Photos)

“Whereas I’ve combined emotions about Dillane’s appointment as visitor designer (I personally assume Bianca or Martine would have been higher selections), total it was a fairly strong present. Some good tailoring, nice luggage, and suiting, and the playful spirit of Virgil all through. Kudos to the LV males’s atelier for his or her delicate method to sustaining the legacy of Virgil and his surprise emporium.” — SBG

“Visitor designer Colm Dillane from KidSuper has confirmed himself a well-adapting inventive director for the Louis Vuitton Males’s present. He’s made it clear that he has a playful eye but additionally a watch for element on this assortment, with fashions donning whimsical coats and luggage whereas being structured on the identical time. Hopefully, Louis Vuitton will proceed to have visitor designers to stretch the abilities of designers we all know and love.” — KM

DRIES OF NOTES

Essence Fashion Team Dishes On Men’s PFW F/W 23
A mannequin walks the runway through the Dries Van Noten Menswear Fall-Winter 2023-2024 present as a part of Paris Vogue Week on January 19, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photograph by Arnold Jerocki/Getty Photos)

“Who does print like Dries? Completely no-one. On prime of that, to not be biased, however Dries simply has and continues to have menswear in a chokehold. It’s at all times impeccable tailoring, the masterful juxtaposition of prints and textiles, and a contact of the surprising. This season that off-kilter ingredient was a splash of athleisure with mesh jerseys. I’ll take a Dries sports activities jersey for my Tremendous Bowl events!” — SBG

“Papa Dries,” as Amanda Murry @londongirlinnyc says had a present stuffed with good flowing trousers and ideal tailoring with darts sitting simply in the precise place to fall on a mannequin’s physique naturally. His skill to make something appear luxurious is a expertise in and of itself. Dries is a beloved designer amongst trend’s elite and has confirmed himself worthy of that honor as soon as once more.” — KM

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