Affectionate meals in Paris for nostalgic Brazilians

Thus mentioned the author of Minas Gerais Eduardo Frieiro (1889-1982): “There isn’t a debate. In London, Paris, Hamburg, New York or Tokyo, a Brazilian will miss the snacks of his land: Bahian prawns, Brazilian fish, full feijoada, vatapá, shrimp moqueca, hash with rice, hen with angu and okra, guava paste with Minas cheese. ” Anitta, 29, has been out of Brazil for days, because of commitments in america and the Euro Summer season 2022 tour.

Passing by Paris, in France, a rustic that could be a reference level of nice delicacies and that has influenced the gastronomy of the entire world, the more and more worldwide pop music diva didn’t care about stylish. In her social networks he requested for recommendation on eating places that might supply him home made meals. As a result of meals is not only nourishment; it may be many issues, together with reuniting with our origins. And, as every part the woman from Rio does or says turns into an occasion, her followers have began suggesting just a few locations.

Additionally beware the buddies of Mariele Góes, proprietor of La Bahianaise. They acquired concerned in preventing and campaigned for Anitta to note the restaurant run by the 34-year-old Bahian chef. It’s not true? There have been so many tags on her web page that the Brazilian singer determined to get in contact. The order: beans or feijoada, rice and pure farofa (no bacon, no banana, no egg, no nothing).

It was Sunday, a type of days of intense rush to the restaurant positioned within the municipal market of Saint Quentin, within the middle of Paris. The house of solely 18 seats was full, so many requests to satisfy. The element is that they do not work with supply. “I did it, exceptionally, for Anitta. Who would not do it? ” Mariele jokes. Activation of turbo mode.

The marketing campaign began round midday, the artist positioned the order round 2.30 pm and, earlier than 4 pm, he already had the delicacies in hand. The chef herself insisted on delivering it, alongside together with her helpers and buddies Alexandre and Vitor Hugo. Earlier than, nevertheless, dramatic moments: “Anitta was altering her garments and we went there. The workforce discovered us and mentioned that, sadly, they might not be capable to obtain us. Though somewhat pissed off, we had been completely satisfied solely that she ate our meals, ”says Mariele.

“As I used to be leaving, I despatched an audio to say it had been delivered, that it was a disgrace we did not meet, to which he promptly replied: ‘Nooooo, come right here to my room, I am accomplished altering garments now and I am going to obtain you’ . The timing was excellent. She welcomed us, we took footage, we chatted, she was tremendous pleasant, receptive, she requested us what it was prefer to dwell and work overseas, very smiling, humble and enjoyable ”.

To supply an entire Brazilian expertise, along with the feijoada, rice and farofa requested by the singer, Mariele introduced guarana, ardour fruit mousse, pudding and coxinha. “Anitta did not ask, however we thought she and the workforce would love it.” The return of the artist was within the publish of the restaurant: “Delíciaaaa”, she wrote, together with her attribute pleasure of her. “We hope she favored it sufficient to ask once more. For those who do not order it is okay, as a result of it was a really good expertise “, underlines the Bahian chef, celebrating the backlash:” We gained about 5 thousand extra followers on the restaurant web page and other people got here right here saying it was for Anita . It went very properly ».

Mariele Góes, 34, began her personal gastronomy enterprise by promoting acarajé in Paris (Photograph: promoting)


Along with being a chef, Mariele Góes can also be a journalist, graduated from the Federal College of Bahia (UFBA). She due to this fact is aware of the significance of benefiting from this second with the Brazilian queen of pop to provide visibility to her enterprise. “Anitta represents very properly what this drive of Brazilian ladies is to undertake, to reinvent. I feel a part of her profession is basically attention-grabbing; like her, she was capable of depart Brazil, make a world profession and grow to be a music diva. I am an enormous fan, ”she says.

Born in Salvador, Mariele has her similarities to the singer from Rio de Janeiro: they each determined to face life in a foreign country. Earlier than you, nevertheless, you lived for some time within the metropolis of Sao Paulo, the place you labored within the media. Throughout this era she grew to become keen about gastronomic journalism, till a pal of hers, a well known skilled within the space, prompt: “Go and do gastronomy”.

Coming from a household of girls who cooked pastries and adorned desserts to complement their revenue, it made lots of sense to her: “Once I wore the dolman (jacket utilized by cooks, normally white) and began studying to prepare dinner professionally, I understood what was what I actually wished “. She then graduated in gastronomy, and after passing by stylish eating places corresponding to DOM, by Alex Atala, in 2016 she decides to go to France, the place she had already accomplished an alternate program on the time of the journalism college. She took the cat Brigitte and #partiuEuropa.

The concept was first to specialize at Colli Ferrandi, probably the most prestigious gastronomy college in France (“Much more than Le Cordon Bleu”, he tells me emphatically) earlier than returning to Brazil and opening a restaurant. Since life has wonderful storylines like a film, she finally stayed there. When she discovered herself working for a starred however abusive chef – who verbally abused her and nearly got here to her palms – she needed to redefine all of it.

Just like the character in Amélie Poulain’s The Fabulous Destiny, Mariele discovered a small field that will change her life. Metaphorically, in fact. The field, in Mariele’s case, was the acarajé. She stepped down, regarded deep into her roots, and located new that means within the cupcake. You may have began producing and promoting our most emblematic delicacy. “A bunch made an appointment on Fb, went there, fried the acarajé, talked about her story, tasted it and left. it was an prompt hit. I spotted that there was nobody doing acarajé in Paris. I do not even imagine in France, ”she recollects.

A yr later, in 2018, the chef opens La Bahianaise, which in French means A Baiana, a reputation that’s maybe a solution to set up itself on this planet, in a rustic so completely different from his personal. Whereas she solutions my questions by way of Whatsapp, it’s doable to listen to Gilberto Gil within the music of the restaurant, in one in every of our Bahian hymns: ‘Each Bahian woman has a saint that God offers …’

Along with feijoada (the menu has grow to be ‘Feijoada da Anitta’) and acarajé, Brazilian and European prospects additionally discover floor beef, pastel de Feira, cheese bread, oxtail, shrimp bobó, tropeiro beans, amongst others , with costs starting from 6 to 22 euros – one thing between 32 and 120 reais. The merchandise are bought in markets corresponding to Asia and Africa, which have substances nearer to ours. Some, nevertheless, must be tailored to the native actuality, corresponding to Minas Gerais’ pão de queljo, which is made with French cheeses.


Brazilian digital influencer primarily based in Paris for greater than seven years, Max Petterson, 28, from Ceará, is one in every of La Bahianaise’s fashionable purchasers. He has adopted Mariele’s work on the restaurant from the very starting: “Mariele places into meals the love she has for cooking and the love to prepare dinner for others, which is one thing that goes past the industrial factor. In that vitality, in that environment, you’re already caught together with her meals and wish to come again extra usually. My favourite dish is feijoada, which warms us up once we are overseas ”.

When they’re away from dwelling, the women of the Brazilian ladies’s soccer workforce additionally make the most of the gastronomic breath of Bahia. Mariele is the chef of the gamers in Europe. “One factor that occurs in my day by day life is that I deliver emotional meals to those that discover themselves each in a traumatic scenario of a sports activities competitors, and within the routine of an artist, as within the day by day life of people that go to eating places. I discover this affection, this affection unimaginable! ”, Defines Amélie Poulain of Bahia very completely satisfied.

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